In Alberta, we’re the No 1 air conditioning repair experts
With over 40 years servicing Alberta, we have the expertise to diagnose, repair or replace any AC component in your Car, Truck or RV. We would be happy to review your vehicle and concerns at any of our 4 Alberta locations.
We also have an extensive library of mobile air conditioning repair and related information if you are interested in better understanding your own AC system.
We provide a broad range of auto air conditioning repair service and general automotive air conditioning service in Alberta and its surrounding areas.
Expert Car AC diagnostics and repair
There’s nothing worse than driving around when your air conditioning or heating has broken down. Whether it’s summer and you’re sweltering or winter, and your hands are turning to ice, you need a functioning air conditioning or heating system in your vehicle. We service all makes and models including Commercial Fleet Vehicles, RV’s, Trucks and Cars!
AC recharge service
When summer weather hits and your AC system doesn’t seem to keep up, then you probably need a refrigerant recharge. We can recharge your system with the required refrigerant using our state-of-the-art environmentally safe recapture and filling equipment. You’ll be back on the road in cool comfort in no-time!
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Why can I hear the Compressor turning on but my Air-conditioning wont blow cold?
There could be several reasons why your auto A/C compressor is coming on (or cycling on and off) but you still do not have cool air coming from the vents in the car. In general, the reason is that the A/C system is under a superheat condition. That means there is not enough liquid refrigerant in the A/C evaporator to effectively transfer the heat.
The superheat condition is caused by only one of two reasons. Either there is a problem with the refrigerant flow and that is restricting the amount of refrigerant entering into the evaporator OR the system is low on refrigerant and there simply is not enough refrigerant to maintain the proper liquid level in the evaporator.
The quickest method to test this is to add a small amount of refrigerant (usually between 2-4oz. depending on the total system charge). If the added refrigerant corrects the problem, you most likely have a leak and the system should be recovered, have the leak repaired, vacuum and recharge the A/C system with the original factory specified amount of refrigerant. If the added refrigerant did NOT improve the cooling, you most likely have a restriction within the A/C circuit. That could be at the condenser, drier or expansion valve or orifice tube. The system will have to be diagnosed in order to determine the real problem.
Why is there a pool of water under my car?
In a properly functioning AC system it is not uncommon to find Condensation dripping from a drain tube under the vehicle. This is a healthy symptom of an air-conditioning system that is draining off condensation that has collected on the evaporator in the dash. As moist air is passed over the evaporator, humidity (water droplets in the air) will freeze to the evaporator coil. Once the A/C is cycled off the moisture will melt and drain away under the vehicle, rinsing away any build up of dust and dirt that may collect against the evaporator.
What is the moldy smell when we start to use Air-conditioning in the spring?
A common complaint and problem is the fact that even properly operating auto A/C systems develop a foul odor. Are you tired of those odors? Tried everything and you still can’t get rid of them? That may be because you’re not getting to the real problem. You’re just masking the odor. Find out why you are getting odors from your A/C system and find out:
Are foul odors from your auto A/C System making you sick?
It’s a common problem. What’s worse if that most service shops don’t have a reliable solution. Understand how the air flow works in your auto A/C system and you will quickly see how you can easily eliminate those foul odors.
Foul odors from an auto A/C system is actually a very common problem. It’s also quite simple to solve, if you know how to get to the source of the problem. Countless ‘fixes’ promise to remove the odor, but only mask them.
Understand first of all, that any product you spray into your dash vents or apply from inside the car will only mask the odors. They will not solve the problem, that’s for sure.
The problem starts at your auto A/C evaporator. More specifically, it starts on what is known as the ‘air side’ of the evaporator. That is the side that faces the incoming air. What you may not know is that all of the air that enters into your vehicle MUST pass over the evaporator first. Regardless if you’re calling for cooling or heating, all of the air entering your vehicle passes over the evaporator first.
The typical auto A/C system (or MHVAC… mobile heating, ventilation and air conditioning system) is actually a ‘series re-heat’ system. That means all the air entering your vehicle passes over the evaporator first. If you’re calling for cooling or A/C, the air enters directly into your vehicle passenger compartment after passing over the evaporator. If you’re calling for heat, then the air is directed from the evaporator to the heater. Then it enters your car as heated air. In the event you are calling for something between full heat of full cooling, then some of the air is directed right into the car while some of it is directed over the heater. The air mix provides the comfort level that you select.
To best illustrate this, we’ve included an illustration (below) of a typical auto A/C system air flow diagram.
Air flow in the auto A/C system:
As mentioned above, all the air entering into the vehicle is directed over the A/C evaporator first. From there, it’s either sent directly into the vehicle (for A/C cooling) or directed over the heater for heat. When mid range temperatures are required, the air is mixed; some enters directly from the evaporator while other air is directed over the heater.
This illustration shows the actual inlet air flow of a typical auto A/C system. Notice that from the blower motor (bottom right of the illustration) all air passes over the A/C evaporator first! Then it’s directed as required for cooling or heating.
Now, consider the air that is being directed into your vehicle. All of the airborne pollutants are pulled into the evaporator air inlet by the blower motor. The wet evaporator face makes the idea ‘filter’ for the air, leaving all the debris and pollutants trapped.Keep in mind that when the auto A/C system operates properly, the evaporator is always wet with condensation. That’s the moisture in the air that is being removed as the warm air hits the cold evaporator. Additionally, the evaporator case is completely enclosed; therefore it’s a dark and damp place.
In addition to that, if you routinely park under trees, it’s typical to find dried leaves in the evaporator case too! With a combination of the air born pollutants, leaves and any any other contaminants in the air, it’s no wonder the evaporator case quickly becomes a breeding ground for mold, mildew, spores and bacteria.
This illustration shows a different view of a typical auto A/C system and the air distribution. You can quickly see where the odor problem occurs on the air side of the evaporator. You can also quickly see how spraying anything into the A/C system vents will not solve the problem. It will only mask the odor.
Treating and eliminating odors from your auto A/C system:
The only way to resolve the problem of odors from your auto A/C system is to get directly to the root of the problem. Evaporator treatments available on the market can do just that. The reason we say ‘can’, is that a lot of products sold as an odor treatment are still applied through the vents. By know you understand that anything applied through the vents will not solve the problem. Therefore, getting an odor treatment that’s applied directly on the face of the evaporator will help eliminate the problem.
The A/C Evaporator Treatment does just that. It’s a complete single can application kit that includes a 30″ spray wand that let’s you get directly to the air side of the evaporator – exactly where the problem starts.
The illustration on the left shows a typical application of the A/C Evaporator Treatment. This particular product formula is a triple action foaming formula. It helps to sanitize, protect and eliminate odors. In the photo you can see how it works in a cut away evaporator case. The application spray wand and brass spray nozzle applies the product directly to the air side of the evaporator. Within minutes the foam is reduced (to drain out your evaporator drain) and the auto A/C system operation is restored.
In alternative cases, where no opening is available, you can CAREFULLY DRILL A 1/4″ HOLE into the evaporator case. CAUTION must be used as drilling into the evaporator will cause a leak that is probably not repairable. With a small 1/4″ hole in the air side of the evaporator, you can easily thread the application hose into the evaporator case. Once completed, simply use a ‘puddy’ to cap the hole.Applying the A/C Evaporator Treatment:
This product is easy to install. Simply locate the evaporator case from under the hood. The evaporator is usually on the passenger side of the vehicle. The spray wan has to be inserted (through any opening) between the evaporator and the blower motor. That assures you are applying the product to the air side of the evaporator. If an opening is not available, you can loosen the blower motor housing and route the application hose into the evaporator case that way. The spray wand is only 3/16″ of an inch thick, so just about any opening will do.
From our experience, one application will usually last between 3-6 months, depending on how contaminated the A/C evaporator is. Your particular results may vary.
Why do I not have enough air flowing through the vents in my heater or A/C?
There are a few reasons that the flow of air may be restricted through the vents in the dash of your heater or air-conditioning. In more recently manufactured vehicles the engineers have designed a Cabin Air Filter to filter the air as it passes through the system. These filters commonly get blocked with dust, leaves and other air born particulates. The filters do require regular replacement.
Secondly: Systems that were manufactured before the introduction of Cabin Air Filters commonly get a build up of dust, pollen lint and other air born particles that eventually block the flow of air through the MHVAC (Mobile Heating, Ventilation and Air-Conditioning) system.
Thirdly: The controls that Direct the flow of air through the MHVAC fail and do not direct the air through the required path.
Where does the refrigerant go?
R-134A is a liquid when contained in a sealed environment however if the refrigerant escapes from the system it has a very low boiling point (32 degrees) and very quickly evaporates into the atmosphere.
What’s the problem with topping off an A/C system that’s low on refrigerant?
The problem is that you can never tell how much refrigerant is in the system before you start to top it off. You test and diagnose A/C system using manifold gauges. They provide a pressure reading. That pressure reading is in no way related to the amount (weight) of refrigerant in the system. Therefore, you can never be sure of how much is already in the system. Above that, late model vehicles now have a full spec charge of just several ounces (as opposed to older applications that were between 3 and 4 pounds of refrigerant). If the total charge is 20 or 25 ounces, being ‘off’ by 4 or 5 ounces could be the difference between cooling and no cooling. You should always recover the refrigerant in the system, pull deep vacuum for at least 1/2 hour (to remove air and moisture) and recharge.
Is there regulations in place to handle the refrigerant?
Yes, the government has been involved for many years to control the handling and intentional discharge of ozone depleting substances into the atmosphere. An agreement that was introduced in the 1980’s to limit the production and use of chemicals known to deplete the ozone layer called the “Montreal Protocol, can be found at the following link: http://ozone.unep.org/
How much is a recharge?
The basic cost of a recharge is $169.95. Recharge price includes the following:
- Complete A/C evaluation
- Visual inspection of all components & hoses
- Hook up gauges & pressure test
- Leak test system (w / nitrogen up to 200psi)
- Cycle heater – A/C sys. through all modes
- Completely evacuate system
- Add U/V Leak Tracing Dye & Oil
- Written report of required repairs if any
- Recharge system with up to 2lbs of refrigerant. Note: Extra charge of $2.00/oz 134A/OZ OR $32.00 / lb 134A
- Run A/C to confirm proper performance
- Confirm vent temperature. (35–45 degrees F)
If the above service can not be performed due to a necessary repair, we will complete a detailed estimate to correct the problem for only $49.95 including SS & tax. The estimate fee is not charged if repair approval is given, and is fully refundable toward the repair if completed within 30 days.
Rates / Hour: Shop Supplies will be charged to every hour of Labour @ a rate of $90.00 per hour.
How long should a recharge last?
Your auto A/C system is a closed and sealed system and (in theory) should not require regular service or recharging unless the system is being opened for service. However, the systems do leak (over time) as no seal is absolutely 100% leak free. You must also realize that compressor shaft seals (which require lubrication with refrigerant oil in order to hold their seal) will leak when the A/C system is not operated for extended periods of time (like over winter months). Therefore, as long as your A/C system is cooling properly, there is no reason to have to recharge it. Should you notice a drop in cooling, it should be checked and serviced and will most likely require recharging. Complete information and details on how to recharge your A/C system are available here. Just keep in mind that continued operation of a poorly cooling A/C system could cause sever damage to your A/C compressor! How can you tell? Just have a look at your orifice tube. Every orifice tube will tell a story about the condition on your A/C system. When your orifice tube is restricted, you have a serious problem that requires immediate attention and your entire A/C system will have to be flushed!
Do I have to Retrofit my A/C System to a new refrigerant?
Up until the early 1990’s, all auto A/C Systems used a common refrigerant known as R-12 (Freon). It was relatively inexpensive and very efficient at transferring heat. However, it was eventually discovered that R-12 (along with all other CFC’s and some other substances) had a very sever negative impact on the earth’s ozone layer. Therefore, R-12 had to be replaced as the preferred refrigerant.
With most industrialized nations signing the Montreal Protocol (1987), the elimination of R-12 was imminent. That created a lot of questions and concerns within the industry. In addition to the concerns about finding a replacement refrigerant, there was the issue of dealing with all the vehicle A/C systems that were on the road already using R-12. This created even more questions and concerns. In order to address all of those existing R-12 systems, it was decided that they should be retrofitted to use another refrigerant. Once again, more questions and concerns.
The purpose of this information is to provide you an objective overview of all the factors that have to be considered when retrofitting your vehicle’s A/C system. You may not be doing the retrofit yourself, but the information will help you understand the potential problems and difficulties that can be encountered. The details will also demonstrate that there really is no such thing as a ‘closed system’ retrofit where you can just add a can and go.
When should you retrofit your A/C System?
As a general rule, it’s been decided that for optimum cooling performance, any vehicle A/C system that was designed to work on R-12 should be serviced with R-12 for as long as the supply is available. As we move forward in time and supply shortages appear, it is obvious that pricing will become a major factor in the decision. If you have to retrofit, most aftermarket professionals feel that the best choice of refrigerants is still R-134a, and usually only suggest alternative refrigerants when performance problems are encountered with R-134a.
Some of the factors that have to be addressed when retrofitting the A/C system include:
- Changes in refrigerant oil
- A/C System Flush
- Change of drier or accumulator
- Caution with condenser design
- Caution regarding compressor
- Cooling and/or cooling fan operation
- Installation of HPCO (High Pressure Cut Out Switch)
- Installation of charge port adapters
- System Label
Changes in A/C refrigerant oil: As a rule, R-12 systems use mineral oil and R-134a systems in new vehicles (OE Applications) will use PAG oils. For compatibility issues, the industry moved to use Ester oil (POE) for retrofitting systems. Ester oils were chosen because they were shown to be compatible with both the mineral oil already in the system and the R-134a refrigerant about to be installed. In recent years, new synthetic lubricants have been introduced that have proven work well with all oils. They have shown excellent results, improved cooling performance and have eliminated a lot of the confusion about which oil to use and when.
Flushing the A/C System: This is usually done in order to remove as much of the mineral oil (and any other contaminants) in the system as possible. It also helps to assure against oil overcharging which can reduce cooling performance. When the system is flushed, the proper amount of new oil can be added before recharging. If your are considering retrofitting your a/c system because some other component has failed (ie.: leaking evaporator, compressor failure, etc.) the system should most certainly be thoroughly flushed.
Change of drier or accumulator: The drier or accumulator is the one part that should always be replaced when retrofitting. First of all, it provides filtering for the refrigerant and (most importantly) removes moisture. Doing a retrofit without it would be like changing the engine oil and not changing the filter. Secondly, new replacements will (almost always) be manufactured with either XH-7 or XH-9 desiccant. These are compatible with R-134a while the desiccants used in R-12 systems may not be compatible.
Caution with condenser designs: Although R-134a is an efficient refrigerant, it is not as efficient as R-12. In many older R-12 systems (pre 1980), the original condensers were manufactured in a round tube (usually 3/8” O.D.) and flat fin design. These design configurations usually do not work well with R-134a, and you may have to replace the condenser with a newer design configuration. The replacement condenser should be either an aluminum serpentine design (which incorporates all aluminum vacuum brazed construction) or a parallel flow design that incorporates smaller tube diameters and higher cooling fin density. It would not be wise to purchase the OE replacement condenser for your vehicle as it will probably be the same tube and fin design you already have. Aftermarket suppliers will be your best source.
Caution regarding compressors: In almost all cases, there should be no reason to replace the compressor in order to complete the retrofit, unless it has already failed. The only precaution is for older compressors that will (after retrofitting) be operating at potentially higher pressures. The higher pressures could cause other problems or potentially a complete failure. Other than those precautions, it is good practice to remove the compressor and drain as much residual oil out as possible. (Compressor can not be flushed)
Cooling and/or cooling fan operation: For applications that use belt driven fans, it is important to be sure that fan clutches (if installed) are working properly and that all fan shrouding is in tact. For applications with electric cooling fans, it is important that they be checked so that they are engaging at the proper time to help eliminate excess high pressure conditions. Additionally, a general cooling system inspection is good practice. An overheating radiator can (and will) reduce the ability of the condenser to dispel heat, causing excessive high pressures.
Installation of HPCO (High Pressure Cut Out Switch): This is an excellent safety mechanism that should be installed. The switches are usually designed to perform a few functions. Most importantly, they will stop the compressor from coming on if the system looses it’s charge, and they will also cause the compressor to shut down (temporarily) should the system pressures get too high.
Installation of charge port adapters: Your system should have ‘retrofit adapters’ installed on both the high and low side service ports. They are generally inexpensive and allow R-134a manifold gauge sets to be attached to the system (for charging and testing). They also provide an instant notification to the next service technician that the system has already been retrofitted to R-134a. Be cautious of the fact that many shops will install the adapters for charging purposes and remove them when they are done. This practice is illegal in most jurisdictions and should be frowned upon.
System Label: Each A/C system that has been retrofitted should be labelled, identifying the new refrigerant. Additionally many of the labels allow for the amount of new refrigerant charged. That is helpful because the total amount of R-134a will be different from the total factory specified charge of R-12.
Although this information does not cover every example and possible problem encountered when retrofitting an A/C system, it should provide you a good understanding of all the factors that have to be addressed.
What is Black Death?
The subject of system flushing would not be complete without discussing Black Death. Below you will find an interesting article which first appeared on the AC Source web site. This article was written by Warren Willingham, and has been reprinted here with permission from AC Source.
Black Death is the worst compressor disease to hit our industry since the DA6 came out and was spitting ring material through the system! At least the DA6 Teflon “droppings” were something that could be flushed out easily. Back then, they didn’t use multi pass, or parallel flow condensers. The old tube and fin condenser, although not as efficient as the others I mentioned, could be flushed with excellent results.
After we became familiar with the DA6, then comes the FX15 compressor. The Teflon rings of the FX15 get munched into a fine dust. At least when the DA6 compressor shed it’s rings it did it in chunks. Well, now you mix this powdered Teflon (courtesy of the FX15) with a nice hot oil and refrigerant and there you have it. Black death! It’s an ugly sight to behold, especially when you know what it means to your customer’s pocket book! What’s so bad about this type of contamination, you might ask? We’ll attempt to explain that in the following paragraphs.
The material, known as black death, is unlike normal contamination. As the system cools down, this crud bonds itself to the components in the system. Normal flushing appears to be cleaning out the system because you see some of the contamination come out with the flush. The biggest problem is that most of it is still inside, almost like a powder coating on a piece of metal. Because you see what looks like the contamination coming out in the flush, you assume that the system is clean. OOPS, it’s that old assume word again. It’s not!
A regular flush gun, attached to your air compressor with even the best liquid flush, is not powerful enough to remove the Black Death material from components in most cases. Even a closed loop flush machine isn’t enough sometimes. We’ll tell you what Ford dealerships had to do about the problem.
Ford Motor Co. required all of their dealers to purchase the “Rotunda” flush machine. The machine was manufactured by the Cliplight Corporation. They also made a flush that was powerfull (caustic) enough to actually break this contamination down into a flushable material. My friends at a Ford dealership when this first started told me that they had to do these systems outside because the smell was overwhelming. With this method, the dealerships seemed to be successful in flushing these systems.
Early on, we would recommend filters in the suction and discharge side to protect the orifice tube and the compressor. This didn’t always work because the contamination was so severe, it would just plug up the filters in a very short amount of time. That’s a lot of contamination. Ford did have a succesfull filter procedure, but it was actually labor intensive enough to justify changing components instead of doing the filter procedure! It was O.K. for Ford, but typical shops couldn’t afford to waste an extra two hours with charge, recover, recharge, recover, recharge, etc.! To make a long story short, filters were not very efficient for us.
What was the best thing to do then? Well, it came down to a firewall forward replacement. Because this was so prevalent, manufacturers lowered pricing on these parts so that you could buy the whole firewall forward kit for what a compressor and accumulator cost years ago. Everything except the evaporator core was replaced. It was the only answer in a high percentage of Black Death cases unless you had the same equipment Ford did. Oh, BTW, it was about $2500 for the machine alone (I haven’t priced it for awhile) and $45 for a gallon of flush. Each job required at least one gallon.
I’m not always popular for telling the truth. The fact is, many people doing these jobs shouldn’t be. They don’t accept that some systems can’t be flushed and if they did replace everything they didn’t always finish the job. They would replace all of the components and leave the defective fan clutch that caused the meltdown to begin with. These systems are more than the compressor and accumulator. Fan clutches, electric fans, radiators, etc, are not what people consider part of the A/C system but are responsible for many of the breakdowns and lockups, in my opinion.
When should the system be flushed?
We believe if the a/c system is opened for service, it’s a good time to flush. A clean system minimizes the chance of a comeback. On systems that utilize an orifice tube, you can usually judge the condition by looking at the inlet side of the orifice tube screen. If a substantial amount of debris is found, flushing would be recommended. Likewise, visual inspection of the refrigerant oil may indicate it’s time to flush.
When I flush my system, can the compressor be flushed too?
No, not with typical solvent flush methods. The compressor should be removed from the vehicle and the oil drained from it. You can pour refrigerant oil into the suction port and turn the compressor hub by hand which will pump clean oil through the compressor. Remember, compressors don’t compress liquids. So, make sure you rotate the compressor hub by hand enough to ensure you don’t liquid “slug” the compressor.
Can the accumulator or Filter Drier be flushed?
No. Since these are filters which contain desiccant, they are considered normal replacement items.
Can I flush the hoses and lines?
If you’re sure the solvent that you are using will not harm rubber or nylon, then it’s alright to flush the hoses. Just make sure that you don’t flush trough any hoses that have mufflers built into them. And also make sure you don’t attempt to flush through the compressor or expansion device.
I noticed my A/C hoses have mufflers. Can those be flushed?
Though many technicians will flush through hose mufflers, it’s usually not considered a good idea. As a general rule, hoses with mufflers should be replaced instead of flushed. Since the muffler is only used to reduce noise, some people opt to remove the muffler in order to salvage the hose.
Can I flush through the Orifice tube or expansion valve?
No. Flushing through the orifice tube or expansion valve is too restrictive to the flow of solvent. There is one exception of course. On some Ford models the orifice tube cannot be removed without cutting the liquid line. We know of technicians who often remove the liquid line and back flush through it. In theory, back flushing the liquid line will clean the orifice tube. This is said to work in most cases; though replacing the liquid line is the preferred method. Remember, a dirty orifice tube can starve a compressor of oil.
Should the evaporator be flushed?
Most would say yes, but some would argue that it’s not worth the extra effort for two reasons. Flush solvents can be very difficult to remove from some evaporators. Sometimes the risk of not being able to remove the solvent outweighs the benefit of flushing that component. Secondly, some would point out that evaporators stay fairly clean because any dirt floating around the system is captured first by the receiver drier, then by the inlet screen of the expansion valve. In the case of an orifice tube system, most debris would be caught by the orifice tube screens before it could reach the evaporator. While this is mostly true, systems that use the block style expansion valves have no inlet screen, and dirt from a ruptured receiver drier could find its way into the evaporator. Also, oil likes to accumulate in low-lying areas of the evaporator. If your goal of flushing is to remove dirty oil, you’ll have plenty of it in your evaporator.
Can I damage the system if I still try to use it when it is in need of repair?
YES! You certainly can cause damage to an A/C system that is working (or has the A/C compressor engaged) but isn’t blowing cold.
The biggest problem is that your system is probably low on refrigerant. When that happens, your A/C compressor is not being cooled properly. Understand that the same refrigerant that keeps you cool also cools your compressor. What’s worse is that without the proper flow of refrigerant, your A/C compressor isn’t getting proper lubrication either! That’s because there is not enough refrigerant flowing through the system to carry the required amount refrigerant oil to the A/C compressor. That can quickly cause catastrophic failure.
If this is happening to your car’s air conditioning system, leave your A/C controls in the ‘economy’ or ‘vent’ position until the A/C system is diagnosed and serviced. That way, you are not calling for the compressor to engage and you will reduce the risk of having a catastrophic failure.
How much does the repair cost?
This is a very difficult question to answer with out first inspecting the Air Conditioning system to determine the symptom and the cause of the symptom. You will have to schedule an appointment for is to view and compile an estimate relative to the repairs necessary to correct the problems that exist to your vehicle.
Can I wait for the repair while you are working on the vehicle?
It is best if you can leave your vehicle with us to perform the required repairs. We will notify you when the repairs are complete and tested back to 100% operational.
What is the warranty on the repair?
- A/C Parts are warranted for 12-month or 20,000 KM Warranty
- Recharges are warranted for 90 days only. (Unless a leak came from the same place as a repair made within the last 12-months.)
- Commercial Vehicles are only Warranted for 20,000 KM.
- Mileage is record when the A/C Service is performed
- Labor is warranted the same as parts.
- Compressors will only be warranted according to Manufacturer Specs.
We do not recharge Air-conditioning systems with identifiable leaks.
We make every effort during the initial inspection to locate any leak that may exist. Due to the nature of the pressurized A/C system and the various different rates a system may discharge, we do not always find a leak on the first visit.
We do however recharge every system with ultraviolet dye to aid in locating any leaks that may exist. There is a reason your air-conditioning system is low on refrigerant. The leak may be very slow and the recharge may last for quite some time or may leak down over a short period.
We do warranty all recharges – this is not a money back guarantee on the recharge. If one or more leaks exists, expect that in time, you’re A/C may leak down slightly and stop producing cold air. If this happens we will likely be able to find the leak easily due to the ultra-violet dye we injected into your system during the recharge. (Expect additional costs for the leak repair) If the system has leaked down within 90 days of the original service, we will perform the recharge under warranty, once we have repaired the leak.
The A/C system can only be tested for proper operation once it is sealed and holds pressure. In some cases an A/C system may have multiple leaks or problems, and may require the completion on one repair before another shows itself. We make every effort to evaluate the system completely however we cannot accurately forecast when additional problems may occur. Remember that nothing is engineered to last forever and most of the components on your vehicle are the same age.
We appreciate your business and will make every effort to ensure that your Air-conditioning system is operating to your satisfaction.
Do you have Financing available for the repair costs?
We do have Financing available on all repairs:
Desjardins Online Solutions accord D FINANCING
We can also provide the option of paying for an A/C repair on our deferred payment financing plan. Unexpected repair costs that cut into holiday or travel plans are sure to spoil the trip, unless we can provide a complete cold air solution including financing options.
Deferral fee is 2% of the repair cost.
Why do I have to replace the Dryer?
The Dryer is a filter in the system that the refrigerant passes through to be cleaned. It is recommended by the manufacturer to replace this filter any time your system is serviced. The dryer has desiccant in it that has an affinity to absorb moisture, and if the system has been open to the atmosphere for any length of time, moisture will have been drawn in and saturate the desiccant to the point that it will no longer be effective as a dryer in your system.
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